TURNOUTS

[NW Modeling List]

Thanks to all of you with your great advice.  Maybe instead of "raising the bridge I'll try to lower the river".  And maybe the lower level track leading the mine just now found itself in a tunnel which will buy me about 4" of width and let me use the #4!

Ed Svitil

Norfolk & Western Railway

 

  

 > Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 10:55:02 -0400

> Subject: Re: TURNOUTS

> To: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org

> From: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org

> 

> On Wed, Aug 10, 2011 at 7:47 PM, NW Modeling List

> <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:

> >....What I really need is an outer of 15" and an inner radii of about 12=13" or so.  HO code 83.

> >

> 

> Wow, Ed, you are really down into the range where only a hand-laid

> turnout will suffice, and you need to pay careful attention to the

> adjacent track configuration. Does the siding go straight from there,

> or does it form a reverse curve so as to stay in line with the main

> track? Do you need motive power to go through the turnout, or just

> hoppers? If there are other turnouts nearby, you should beware of

> S-curve alignments.

> 

> Once upon a time I built curved turnouts by hand, including some where

> the mainline went through the smaller radius. (Twenty years and still

> derailment free.) I strongly recommend soldered construction, where

> every few ties are constructed from printed-circuit board materials.

> When compared to hand-spiked construction, soldered construction is

> superior because you can re-heat connections in order to make minute

> (but critical) adjustments to gauge and alignment. I'd also recommend

> using extra-long guide rails opposite the frog.

> 

> Hope this helps!

> - Marty Swartz

> 

> --

> What gets us into trouble is not what we don't know. It's what we know

> for sure,… that just ain't so.   - Mark Twain

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