E2a Motor / Gearbox Recommendations

Tue May 28 22:26:52 EDT 2019

To answer your question: is the crank pin simply a threaded stud that can be unscrewed from the wheel?  Yes. I don't think you have to unsolder anything.

I have an E2a which I bought new in the 1970's.  It runs fine with its original motor and gear box on DC.
I bought another E2a disassembled which will need rebuilding.  It was missing its gear box and motor and the rods are hanging loose, although everything is there. So when I get around to install a new gear box and motor, I will have to requarter the driving wheels. Since the ecentic crank is soldered onto a threaded stud, I'm not sure how to set the valve gear motion.

This is the only brass engine I own with the eccentric soldered onto a pin which threads into the main driver.

--Rick Morrison

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: NW Modeling List via NW-Modeling-List 
  To: NW Modeling List 
  Cc: NW Modeling List 
  Sent: Monday, May 27, 2019 12:10 PM
  Subject: Re: E2a Motor / Gearbox Recommendations

  For reference, I took the model apart and found the following:

  The open frame motor is connected to the worm via a rubber(ash) material. Mine is still flexible, but slips on the worm axle.
  This is a direct-drive gearbox; i.e., the worm gear directly drives the axle-mounted worm wheel (no idler)
  The worm is brass; the worm wheel (axle gear) appears to be nylon or similar.
  The worm wheel has 40 teeth, making this a 40:1 ratio (so the suggested motor may be too slow for the stock gearbox).

  To take advantage of the high-torque motor that Ken suggested, then a gearbox change would be required. However, the eccentric crank is soldered on - an arrangement I’m not familiar with (my experience is limited). My assumption is that this crank is a press or slip-fit and the solder is used to secure it. Assuming the eccentric crank will lift off after being de-soldered, is the crank pin simply a threaded stud that can be unscrewed from the wheel?  Does it have to be in order for the wheel to be pulled?

  Matt

  On May 23, 2019, at 1:15 PM, NW Modeling List via NW-Modeling-List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:

  Matt,

  I got this answer from Ken Clark on another site. He's quite experienced with doing remotoring/regearing so his word is pretty good. Here's his response.

  Roger.

    I think I answered a similar question recently.  I believe these are Toho models.  My experience with that builder was Weyerhaeuser  2-8-8-2s

  with extremely noisy spur gears outside the rear gearbox.  If your gearbox is 27:1, I would  first try installing the 18mm Mabuchi SF-266SA 6 pole motors.

  If the top speed is acceptable (this is a 7,000 rpm motor @ 12 volts). with DCC at 18 volts the rpms may be closer to 10,000.

  That would be a big improvement over the OEM open frame motor and should be quieter as well.  At around $2 each on eBay, 

  this would be certainly a modest investment for the degree of improvement.  The ultimate solution would be a NWSL ball bearing idler gearbox

  at around $50 each; not sure if that would be a $200 improvement.

  ken clark

  www.shastasprings.com

  Hope this helps. I have 4 E-2's to work over as well as changing details for specific engines. Don't know when I'll have the time or money but it's a project I'm looking forward to.

  Roger Huber
  Deer Creek Locomotive Works

  On Saturday, May 18, 2019, 12:21:57 PM CDT, NW Modeling List via NW-Modeling-List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote: 

  Hi list. I have an NWSL E2a (1940 version) in my cabinet that I will eventually re-gear and re-motor.  Given that NWSL may go/is going out of business, I figured I better secure what I need now.  

  Advice on specific Motor / gearbox combinations that have worked for others in this model would be appreciated!

  Thanks, 

  Matt Goodman

  Columbus, Ohio US

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