NW Modeling List nw-modeling-list at
Thu Feb 11 01:37:46 EST 2016

I use powered machines everywhere, except on the edge where I can get to it without reaching over cars or structures. On my after the fact installs I drill thru thru the center of the throw bar , cork and plywood with a .045 drill bit, so I have a reference under the layout. Then I use a 3/8" brad point bit with a 2 foot extension, and slowly drill up  (really slow, when you approach your goal) until the point of the drill makes the throwbar start to wiggle. Then just clean out the cork from the top side and you're good to go . I had someone on top to give me feedback, but you could use a drill-stop on your bit as well.

Good Luck


From: NW-Modeling-List <nw-modeling-list-bounces at> on behalf of NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at>
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 1:40 PM
To: NW Modeling List
Subject: THE SIX P'S

Those of you who have served know what they are.

This is, though, a serious question.  In laying track I ignored the above p's.  As a result, all switches were laid without any consideration of how to operate them.  So....AFTER the fact, while I'm sure no one else has ever been so dumb, has anyone heard of a way to operate switches without ripping up a bunch of track and the switch itself?  I know Micro-Mark has some products that could help, but with the cost I would really like to get it right this time.

Oh, by the way, some of the switches are beneath bridges and pretty hard to get to, including the wye switch; the guilty party is just behind the two bridges.

IF anyone has experienced or heard rumors of other "not sharp tools in the shed" and how they fixed the problem, I would be really thankful.

PS - would you favor manual or powered, like The Tortise?  Can it be installed without ripping up track?


Thanks for any help.......


Ed Svitil
Norfolk & Western Railway

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <>

More information about the NW-Modeling-List mailing list