Tuscan color
NW Modeling List
nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Thu Jul 17 07:46:43 EDT 2014
I have a large bottle of Pine Sol in the cleaning closet. It makes a good
striper and it smells like you are cleaning the house. It's about to drive
my wife nuts because I haven't used it in a good while!
Thanks,
Richard D. Shell
ShellScale Decals
In a message dated 7/17/2014 6:30:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org writes:
Try PineSol instead of brake fluid. Won't hurt the plastic....or your
hands! Jim Nichols
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 11:00 AM, NW Modeling List
<nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:
I've not stripped anything in years....but when I did I used brake fluid,
an old tooth brush, and soap and water. Never had a problem but I know of
folks that had damage to the plastic from the fluid..........but they left
it in the fluid for a very long time. It always worked well for me.
Ed Painter; Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
On Jul 14, 2014, at 5:04 PM, NW Modeling List <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) > wrote:
Thanks Ed. By the way, what do you use for a stripper? . Purple Power
seemed to work but it took a long time.
Lee Burns
From: NW Modeling List <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) >
To: NW Modeling List <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) >,
Date: 07/14/2014 04:52 PM
Subject: Re: Tuscan color
Sent by: "NW-Modeling-List" <_nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org) >
A good airbrush is pretty important in achieving consistent, quality
results when spray painting railroad models.
Ed Painter; Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
On Jul 14, 2014, at 4:09 PM, Edwin Painter <_edwinpainter at gmail.com_
(mailto:edwinpainter at gmail.com) > wrote:
Scalecoat doesn't recommend or require priming or undercoating (white
primer could certainly lighten or change the color of the red and possibly
require significantly thicker coating to achieve a darker color). I've not
used spray cans for many years (I have an airbrush). Spray cans by their
nature significantly lessen your control over the volume and pattern when
spraying. Well controlled and timed multiple, thin coats are the way to keep
from having runs from spray painting. I've never warmed model railroad paints.
I'd simply made sure the cars were completely stripped and free from
moisture of oily film, and likewise free from dust and lint. I'd be sure the
spray can was thoroughly shaken up and mixed. I'd test spray the can. (you
need good lighting) I'd begin painting methodically spraying the nooks and
crannies around the detailed fixtures and edges that require using various
spray angles until they were properly covered (multiple thin coats) working
up to 0 degree spraying of the ends, underside, and roof (multiple thin
coats). Depending on the model the roofs could be attached or removable and
would be painted either black of N&W brown (here too s a subject of fun
debate). Anyway if attached assure it too has at least a smooth coat of red so
when coming back (after masking) to paint it a different color it has a
good starting surface condition.
Ed Painter; Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
On Jul 14, 2014, at 1:33 PM, NW Modeling List <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) > wrote:
Scalecoat II on plastic Con-Cor passenger cars.
On Jul 14, 2014, at 1:19 PM, "NW Modeling List"
<_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_ (mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) > wrote:
These are brass cars? or plastic? Scalecoat or Scalecoat II?
Ed Painter Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
On Jul 14, 2014, at 9:11 AM, NW Modeling List <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) > wrote:
Since I started all this... I bought what turned out to be a spray can of
Scalecoat N&W Red from my hobby shop. I stripped the cars and sprayed
white primer. I think I made a huge rookie mistake warming the can of paint
in warm tap water. Works for enamel but not necessarily lacquer. (I'm
assuming Scalecoat is lacquer) My first reaction was "this is purple paint".
I must have applied ten light coats. The paint is really thin and I have
some runs which was discouraging. I'll let them dry, sand and try again.
In hindsight, I would have used a darker primer and not warmed the paint. I
have been out of modelling a few years....
Lee Burns
From: NW Modeling List <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) >
To: NW Modeling List <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) >,
Date: 07/14/2014 06:52 AM
Subject: Re: Tuscan color
Sent by: "NW-Modeling-List" <_nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org) >
Amen! Just pick a shade of red or blue that pleases you and enjoy!
Ed Painter - Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
On Jul 12, 2014, at 4:10 PM, NW Modeling List <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) > wrote:
The archives has informed me that we don't have color chips in the
archives.
Based on the discussion so far, even if we had them, it probably wouldn't
settle this argument.
I'm not sure anything would actually settle this argument.
I, for one, do appreciate the guys who did chime in with the "this works
for me" answer, that is really the best answer for the original inquirer.
And it does appear that over the years we've learned the impact of
lighting, time, distance, perception, weathering, and lighting.
Frank Bongiovanni
On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:25 PM, NW Modeling List
<_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_ (mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) > wrote:
FWIW perhaps the model committee could provide a paint chip or drift card
to Tru-Color; I'm sure they would be glad to add N&W Tuscan to their line
of prototypically correct model paints.
Jim Brewer
Glenwood MD
From: "NW Modeling List" <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) >
To: "NW Modeling List" <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) >
Sent: Thursday, July 3, 2014 3:28:14 PM
Subject: RE: Tuscan color
Lee;
What both Frank and Ed are talking about occurs in most every society.
Having lived in Milwaukee, WI for several years, I watched an argument between
a pair of Milw. Rd. HS members about the correct color orange on their
passenger cars and other equipment. One member argued that the second was
wrong in that they were all painted the same color & shade of orange. The
second while partially agreed, he stated that they were not all the same color
orange, as he had seen them come out of the paint shops is different shades
of orange, with the paint being ordered at the same time from the same
paint mfgr., which at the time was being delivered in 55 gal drums. The first
individual continued to tell the second he was wrong but finally realized he
had to quit arguing when the second told him that he was one of a half
dozen employees of the Milw. Road who painted their equipment fleet for a
living.....
That being said, the N&W Red from Scalecoat color works well, however it
has a bit of a metallic flake to it. There are several colors I have seen
work fairly well, including WC Maroon. Another color that has just come onto
the market is from TruColor paints, which is very similar in nature to the
old line of Accu-Paint. They are now offering part # TCP-276 - PRR 1948+
Passenger Car Tuscan.
I am sure that somewhere in the archives there is a Paint ID # for the
non-metallic red, that can be shared and closely matched with current
commercial paints from a PPG or ICI paint dealer. I would suggest obtaining a small
amount of said color and try to best match that color by primering a piece
of styrene and top coating the commercial grade paint, and then doing the
same with several colors of model rr paint and seeing which works best for
you and you lighting situation. Keep in mind that some clear coats will
slightly shift the tone of the color of the paint. Also, the color primer will
yield different finish colors as well. Tamyia offers both a white and mild
grey primer paint for example. Darker colors tend to pop more on a lighter
base color.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Russ Goodwin
Buford, GA
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 23:16:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Tuscan color
To: _nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_ (mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org)
From: _nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_ (mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org)
Lee; what Ed is referring to is a "color flame war" that happens every
time N&W Tuscan Red or Pevlar Blue shows up on this list. FWIW, this also
happens on the C&O list with Enchantment Blue, the C&O list and the NYC list
with shades of gray, and probably just about every other model railroad
list.
Hopefully someone who does a lot of painting, and is pleased with the
result, will tell you what mix works for them, and will nicely mention that
with lighting, etc. (the etc. is half a clinic)you may have to make
adjustments. With that I can't help; tuff enough for us Virginian modelers to settle
on workable yellows and black. One thing I can tell you, is that Dr. Jim
EuDaly (he's an eye doc, so this isn't fantasy)actually told us in a clinic
(at a C&O meet)that color actually varies a bit with scale, and (I hope I
got this right)you probably need a tad lighter mix than an HO modeler
would. I can also tell you that your room lighting is probably one of the most
important factors. I guess there's one other thing I should mention
because the more experienced painters consider it so obvious they don't mention
it: make sure the light where you paint is the same as the light on the
layout.
Frank Bongiovanni
On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 5:48 PM, NW Modeling List
<_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_ (mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) > wrote:
My favorite modeling list topic!
Ed Painter Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
On Jul 2, 2014, at 3:21 PM, NW Modeling List <_nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org_
(mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org) > wrote:
I am new member to the modeling list. I am painting an N scale passenger
car set and wondered what color you folks recommend to match the Tuscan
red.
Thank you,
Lee Burns
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