Few Questions about Sunset M

NW Modeling List nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Tue Nov 12 13:43:16 EST 2013

The M is a pain to DCC.

The tender picks up fine.
I swapped to the 9K gal tender with 2 axle trucks, and I had to add brushes to the inside of the trucks for better pick-up. I also made plastic drawbars.

You will need to make a connection to the engine frame for the decoder harness.
Check with a VOM to make sure both poles of the can motor are isolated from the frame.

You will want to pop off the boiler front and prepare your headlight
for a Grain of Dust bulb and make note of the resistor value required to run the bulb without frying it. Use a 1/2 watt or even 1 watt resistor with the Grain of Dust bulb.

I suggest using some very tough paint, perhaps some water base clear gloss on the bottom and inside of the cylinders to prevent the front engine truck from shorting.

For the front coupler, take a Kaydee #5 and cut off the end. Drill a pinhole through the shank, and also through the back end of the coupler pocket. I used some water based clear paint to insulate the contact points on the knuckle. I cut down a Kaydee #5 pocket so it fits the back end of the tender. I put the decoder in the tender too.

I suggest paint it first so it will be apart when you start this project. I've done 2 M's and a W2(NWSL).

Mark Lindsey
Stuck in the 1930's

From: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org<mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>>
Reply-To: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org<mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>>
Date: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 12:52 PM
To: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org<mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>>
Subject: Re: Few Questions about Sunset M

Generally, the tender trucks pick up one side and the engine picks up the other (check the insulated wheels). For DCC you will want to isolate the motor brushes from the engine frame. You can probably do this by breaking the connection you will see between one brush and the motor frame, since the motor frame is generally connected metal to metal to the locomotive frame (which is picking up current on the one side. Some people I know try to insulate the motor from the engine frame, but I don't think this is necessary (as long as the brushes are isolated.)

Jim Nichols

From: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org<mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>>
To: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org<mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: Few Questions about Sunset M

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Jim- I have been there and took the locomotive with me. They were a little bit baffled about DCC installation. Great place!

Rick- What screws should I use? What about installing a working coupler on the front?

Lynn- Are the tender trucks doing all the pickup? I see the locomotive won't run without the tender. What needs isolated to install the decoder? Again, I've never done a brass DCC installation before so any details you can provide would be helpful. I have very little DCC installation experience besides plug and go. So brass is daunting.

Thanks all!

Brad Custer
Columbus, OH

On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 10:04 PM, Custer, Bradley D <bradleydcuster at cedarville.edu<mailto:bradleydcuster at cedarville.edu>> wrote:
Hi all,
Proud new owner of a like new, late run Sunset M #422. Several pressing questions...

1. I purchased Kadee #5 couplers. This seems like it wont't work on the tender as the coupler box will hang below the height of the rear trucks. This doesn't allow for full motion swing. What should I use instead? How about for the front?

2. DCC? How to install? I've never done a brass DCC installation before? Please give me as many details as you can?

3. Paperwork? Did it come with some and could someone scan a copy of it for me if it did?

Thanks for your time!

Happy railroading,

Brad Custer
Columbus, OH

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