Airbrush Paint for Plastics

nw-modeling-list at nw-modeling-list at
Fri Aug 6 10:50:08 EDT 2004

In addition to Russ Goodwin's painting comments drop three (3) no more BB's
in the jar when you open it, they help GREATLY when shaking the bottle
before reopening, Shake, remix the paint, it will separate, let set a few
minutes before using. Cal. Reynolds
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nw-modeling-list at>
To: <nw-modeling-list at>
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 1:23 AM
Subject: RE: Airbrush Paint for Plastics

> As a custom painter, the best starting point for a novice is water, food
> coloring and a stack of paper plates in order to get used to how the
> airbrush works in regards to air pressure and type (single or dual
> Water & FC is a lot cheaper than paint and plastic. Also get Jeff Wilson's
> painting book from Kalmbach Publishing for further reference info.
> When you're ready, try to shoot in a well ventalated area or in a spray
> booth. PollyScale can be cut with water, shot straight from the bottle or
> cut with their airbrush thinner. I've also heard isopropyl alcohol works
> well, haven't tried it, so I can't confirm. PollyScale also has a wide
> variety of colors to choose from. Only drawback is it yields a flat finish
> that needs to be gloss coated prior to decalling, then sealed.
> My personal preference is Scalecoat (metal) and Scalecoat II (plastic),
> 10-15% with their thinner for each product. The paint yields a high gloss
> coat, which can be decalled directly onto, then overcoated for a seal.
> PollyScale is my second choice based on color availability. (Check with
> DesPlaines Hobbies in DesPlaines, IL (Chicagoland area) for Custom
> II Colors including IT Green.)
> Personal opinion on other paints; ModelFlex and Accuflex dry to quickly to
> the airbrush and gum it up, thinner from mfgr; AccuPaint great paint,
> finishes like Scalecoat, unreliable availability, thins with isopropyl
> alcohol; Floquil, great paint, great high, use their thinner, need
> clear coats for applying & sealing decals. I do use Floquil for a limited
> number of colors - Sou Frt Car Brown and Platinum Mist.
> When finished, I clean all the parts with Acetone, a little harsh, but
> well.
> Two tricks to handling paint; mix it with a babyfood or "Martini" mixer,
> don't shake the bottle, fewer micro bubbles in the paint; clean the rim of
> the bottle and jar lid with a "Q-Tip" and acetone, then dab a little
> Vasaline or Chapstick around the rim of the bottle to create a airtight
> seal. Turning the bottle over works as well, just not a personal
> Hope this helps,
> Russ Goodwin
> >From: nw-modeling-list at
> >Reply-To: "N&amp;W Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at>
> >To: nw-modeling-list at
> >Subject: Airbrush Paint for Plastics
> >Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 18:11:53 -0400
> >
> >Painters,
> >
> >While I'm not new to modeling or painting, I am new to air brushing.
> >Could you as a veteran recommend a brand of paints and thinner for a
> >novice?
> >How about a brand of air brush? I'm thinking about starting with a single
> >action brush. Comments?
> >
> >Steam on,
> >Dave Willis.
> >Norfolk and Western, 1940->1950
> >
> >
> >________________________________________
> >NW-Modeling-List at
> >
> ________________________________________
> NW-Modeling-List at

More information about the NW-Modeling-List mailing list