Signal restoration tips

[nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org]

Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 12:23:08 -0400 
To: nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org 
From: nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org
Subject: Re: Ben Blevins' Position Light Signal

Benjamin Blevinowitz writes:

... I'm not sure what I do need.  I want it to be
black, and flat black turns gray pretty fast.  ... and
gloss black creates a glare.   So, what do 
I do?

I have considered painting it gloss black and then
shooting it with dull cote to knock the shine off it. 
Does anybody know if that will work?

Benno:

If you put flat paint (even flat Rustoleum) on an
out-of-doors project, you'll be chipping, scraping and
re-painting every two years.  This applies even to
vertical surfaces, from which you would think the
water would run off before it could rust the metal. 
Flat paint is so porus it does not block the intrusion
of water.

So, although flat paint may be "Signal Department
proper," it is not a "back yard friendly" solution.

Prime the daylights out of your iron with Rustoleum
Rusty Metal Primer, and then give it two coats of
Rustoleum Gloss Black.  If you've prepared the 
surface properly, you'll get six or eight years out of
the paint job.   Any "glossy look" will get burned off
by the ultraviolet rays soon enough.

All my signals, cast iron, etc are done this way.  And
they stay beautiful.

A few other pointers.  (1) A pneumatic needle scaler
is the most efficient tool for cleaning decades worth
of caked on paint off railroad metal.

(2) Aluminim Rustoleum is about the finest paint
Ruseoleum makes... virtually impervious to water and
weather.  (3)  ALWAYS brush your paint and NEVER 
spray it.  Brushing gives a heavier coat and a better
seal.

Happy paintin', Brother !

-- abramo burnetto


May 1, 2005

Good morning, Abram:

Good advice and duly noted.  For those not acquainted
with your backyard, you have several operational
signals of various styles.  Perhaps you can provide
occasional tips about:

1) pouring a concrete foundation for signals

2) wiring signals for operating displays (I can use
one regarding crossing flashers)

3) getting signal masts upright onto the foundation
and attaching signal heads, ladders, etc.

Also, a pneumatic needle scaler is good for detail
work, but what's the best approach for something large
such as a relay cabinet, mast, or ladders?  Wire
brushing on a grinder otherwise seems to be the best
approach.

Good morning,

Frank