Brass painting advice wanted

[NW Modeling List]

  I believe that this brass painting advice has been one of the best conversations I've read on this site. I have read every one of the helpful advise hints given. No matter how many times I've done something someone seems to have that one more piece of advice that I will perhaps try the next time. Yes I've had to strip a few myself and the break fluid and a very soft brass brush gets the model back to ground zero. Make sure you wear gloves as none of the strip methods are great for the hands. Thank you everyone.

  George Keller  

---- NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote: 

> Greg:

>  

> You've gotten lots of good advice, enough that you may now feel a little  

> overwhelmed.  I think you'll find a lot of common threads; the best teacher  

> is experience, so practicing on a couple of "lesser" models - undecorated  

> Athearn "blue box" boxcars for example - might make you more comfortable 

> before  you tackle your pride and joy Overland Vgn C-1.

>  

> Historically Larry would be right about spray cans, but my recent  

> experience with Floquil spray cans (yes, used on "lesser" models) is that if you  

> stay at about 15 +/- in. away, keep the spray moving, and stop immediately 

> when  you've gotten coverage, it won't be too thick.  Don't be afraid of two  

> light coats rather than one heavy.  Again, the air brush gives much more  

> control, and what I just outlined isn't foolproof.

>  

> So, coming full circle, practice first and learn from experience.  The  

> nice thing about a brass model is that if you don't like the first result, you  

> can strip it and redo.  Anyone who claims they've never had to do that is  

> either extremely lucky or...well, you  know.

>  

> Good luck,

>  

> Dave Phelps

>  

>  

> In a message dated 5/12/2011 3:58:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  

> nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org writes:

> 

>  

> Greg: 

> I agree with the comments that you  received about first investing in an 

> airbrush, the can spray paint will go on  so thick that you will loose the 

> fine detail on the model.  Second you  need to remove the lacquer overspray 

> that is protecting the brass.  This  may take sometime; use a soft brush (old 

> tooth brush) to remove the  lacquer.  If you know someone that has a 

> sandblaster for fine detail  jewelry or models, that would be the ultimate in 

> removing the lacquer in  preparing the model for primer.    I use floquil zinc 

> primer  and bake the model in the oven for 1 hour at the lowest setting (less 

> than 100  degrees) placing the model on a piece of wood.  For the final coat 

> I  would use scalecoat, I know that they say that you don’t need primer with 

>  scalecoat but I get better paint wear results priming then painting.  I  

> would apply two coats of the base color, baking between each coat and then  

> apply a gloss coat prior to applying the decals, again I know painters that  

> say the scalecoat finish doesn’t need the gloss coat.  I feel that the  

> decals go down better and you don’t see the film lines.    

> The bottom line is to have fun and  remember that you can always start over 

> again, I am sure that many of us have  had to strip a model because we were 

> not satisfied with the final  results. 

> Good Luck 

> Larry Brown 

> -----Original  Message-----

> From:  nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org 

> [mailto:nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org]  On Behalf Of NW Modeling  List

> Sent: Thursday, May 12,  2011 12:29 PM

> To:  nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org

> Subject: Re: Brass painting advice  wanted 

>  

> Folks:

>  

> 

>  

> If  you go to the link Mike gave us and look in the upper right of the 

> page,  you'll see "Stock status Discontinued."  Unfortunately Walthers gave me  

> the same message (via a live person) a few weeks ago.  If your friendly  

> neighborhood hobby shop still has some, grab it quick.  Both flavors of  

> primer, flat, boxcar red and engine black in spray cans all seem to be  ok...for 

> the moment...

>  

> 

>  

> Of  course, the recommendation for investment in an air brush and 

> practicing until  you're confident is spot on, and in the long run the tradeoff for 

> flexibility  in application and savings on paint versus convenience is yours 

> to  decide.  I've gone both ways depending on my laziness at the  moment.

>  

> 

>  

> Dave  Phelps

>  

> 

>  

>  

> In  a message dated 5/12/2011 12:03:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  

> nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org writes:

> 

>  

>  

> In this instance  (easy job with no custom color mixing), I wouldn't be 

> afraid to recommend  the Floquil model spray paint 3 oz cans.  

>  

> They are very fine  pigment paint, and Brown (toned down with a lot of 

> black weathering) and  Caboose Red are standard colors that will serve him  well.

>  

> Here's a link for  the red....    

> http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWE48

>  

> 

>  

> I would recommend  a primer first, followed by the red and black.  I would 

> bake each item  in the oven at a reasonable temperature (don't melt the 

> solder, or plastic  insulation on some wheel sets) to harden the paint. (this 

> always worked well  with ScaleCoat enamael for me).  

>  

> Finally spray with  a gloss coat, then decal, then cover with  dull  coat.

>  

> 

>  

> Mike  Rector

>  

> 

>  

>  

>   

> ____________________________________

>  

> From: NW Modeling List  <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>

> To: NW Modeling List  <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>

> Sent: Tuesday, March 8, 2011 9:41  AM

> Subject: Re: Brass  painting advice wanted 

>  

>  

> Hi  Greg;

> 

> First: buy some brass sheet stock, and practice practice and  more practice.

> 

> There are lots of techniques that work well, each  artist has develop their 

> own.

> 

> Given your investment in the caboose; I  would strongly recommend that you 

> invest in an air brush, and learn how to  use it.  An air brush is a tool 

> that will last through thousands of  models, and cost less than what you paid 

> for the caboose.

> 

> Probably  the best tool for surface prep of brass is an air eraser with 

> baking soda or  similar media.  Then followed by a very thin primer coat.   

> 

> Always were gloves - nitrile is preferred as it is not effect by  

> chemicals, and it is considered non-allergic.  Latex dissolves in many  chemicals, 

> leaves residue, and many people are deadly allergic to  latex.  Finger oils 

> will cause a strip and  repaint.

> 

> Nigel

> 

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "NW  Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>

> To:  nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org

> Sent: Monday, March 7, 2011 8:13:25  PM

> Subject: Brass painting advice wanted

> 

> 

> 

>  

> Howdy,

>  

> 

>  

> I recently  purchased my first ever brass model, an N.I.B. Overland 

> Virginian C-1 wood  caboose with pre-1954 K brake at a great price ($165) from a 

> non-ebay  internet site, and need some painting advice.

>  

> 

>  

> I want to use  Floquil or Scalecoat flat Caboose Red canned spray paint for 

> the car  body and use small brushes for the detail parts like steps,  

> handrails, grabirons, etc. I've also got Bill Mosteler's decal set for  it.

>  

> 

>  

> There's lots of  internet info on painting brass with regards to surface 

> preparation of the  brass. Some of it is simple and straightforward, some more 

> complicated. Most  also recommend a light flat gray for a primer  coat.

>  

> 

>  

> I would love to  hear from any brass painters on these lists what your 

> experience has been  like painting brass models, and what recommendations you 

> have for surface  prep, painting detail parts, best paint brands, etc.  TIA!

>  

> 

>  

> Greg  Harrod

>  

> Fredericksburg,  Va.

> 

> 

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> 

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