Brass painting advice wanted

[NW Modeling List]

Greg:

 

I agree with the comments that you received about first investing in an
airbrush, the can spray paint will go on so thick that you will loose the
fine detail on the model.  Second you need to remove the lacquer overspray
that is protecting the brass.  This may take sometime; use a soft brush (old
tooth brush) to remove the lacquer.  If you know someone that has a
sandblaster for fine detail jewelry or models, that would be the ultimate in
removing the lacquer in preparing the model for primer.    I use floquil
zinc primer and bake the model in the oven for 1 hour at the lowest setting
(less than 100 degrees) placing the model on a piece of wood.  For the final
coat I would use scalecoat, I know that they say that you don't need primer
with scalecoat but I get better paint wear results priming then painting.  I
would apply two coats of the base color, baking between each coat and then
apply a gloss coat prior to applying the decals, again I know painters that
say the scalecoat finish doesn't need the gloss coat.  I feel that the
decals go down better and you don't see the film lines.  

 

The bottom line is to have fun and remember that you can always start over
again, I am sure that many of us have had to strip a model because we were
not satisfied with the final results.

 

Good Luck

 

Larry Brown

 

-----Original Message-----
From: nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org
[mailto:nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org] On Behalf Of NW Modeling List
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 12:29 PM
To: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Subject: Re: Brass painting advice wanted

 

Folks:

 

If you go to the link Mike gave us and look in the upper right of the page,
you'll see "Stock status Discontinued."  Unfortunately Walthers gave me the
same message (via a live person) a few weeks ago.  If your friendly
neighborhood hobby shop still has some, grab it quick.  Both flavors of
primer, flat, boxcar red and engine black in spray cans all seem to be
ok...for the moment...

 

Of course, the recommendation for investment in an air brush and practicing
until you're confident is spot on, and in the long run the tradeoff for
flexibility in application and savings on paint versus convenience is yours
to decide.  I've gone both ways depending on my laziness at the moment.

 

Dave Phelps

 

In a message dated 5/12/2011 12:03:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org writes:

In this instance (easy job with no custom color mixing), I wouldn't be
afraid to recommend the Floquil model spray paint 3 oz cans.  

They are very fine pigment paint, and Brown (toned down with a lot of black
weathering) and Caboose Red are standard colors that will serve him well.

Here's a link for the red....
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWE48

 

I would recommend a primer first, followed by the red and black.  I would
bake each item in the oven at a reasonable temperature (don't melt the
solder, or plastic insulation on some wheel sets) to harden the paint. (this
always worked well with ScaleCoat enamael for me).  

Finally spray with a gloss coat, then decal, then cover with  dull coat.

 

Mike Rector

 


  _____  


From: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
To: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
Sent: Tuesday, March 8, 2011 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: Brass painting advice wanted

Hi Greg;

First: buy some brass sheet stock, and practice practice and more practice.

There are lots of techniques that work well, each artist has develop their
own.

Given your investment in the caboose; I would strongly recommend that you
invest in an air brush, and learn how to use it.  An air brush is a tool
that will last through thousands of models, and cost less than what you paid
for the caboose.

Probably the best tool for surface prep of brass is an air eraser with
baking soda or similar media.  Then followed by a very thin primer coat.  

Always were gloves - nitrile is preferred as it is not effect by chemicals,
and it is considered non-allergic.  Latex dissolves in many chemicals,
leaves residue, and many people are deadly allergic to latex.  Finger oils
will cause a strip and repaint.

Nigel

----- Original Message -----
From: "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
To: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Sent: Monday, March 7, 2011 8:13:25 PM
Subject: Brass painting advice wanted




  

Howdy,

 

I recently purchased my first ever brass model, an N.I.B. Overland Virginian
C-1 wood caboose with pre-1954 K brake at a great price ($165) from a
non-ebay internet site, and need some painting advice.

 

I want to use Floquil or Scalecoat flat Caboose Red canned spray paint for
the car body and use small brushes for the detail parts like steps,
handrails, grabirons, etc. I've also got Bill Mosteler's decal set for it.

 

There's lots of internet info on painting brass with regards to surface
preparation of the brass. Some of it is simple and straightforward, some
more complicated. Most also recommend a light flat gray for a primer coat.

 

I would love to hear from any brass painters on these lists what your
experience has been like painting brass models, and what recommendations you
have for surface prep, painting detail parts, best paint brands, etc. TIA!

 

Greg Harrod

Fredericksburg, Va.


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