Airbrushing and Acrylics

[NW Modeling List]

Mark, 
 
I may be speaking for a few of us when I ask if you have any pictures that you could send out?  Your details in your process have me curious.
 
Thanks,

Will Sadler
Salisbury, NC

--- On Thu, 2/3/11, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:


From: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
Subject: Re: Airbrushing and Acrylics
To: "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
Date: Thursday, February 3, 2011, 7:48 AM


When I weather, I first have the engine in “new out of the paint shop” condition and work from there. First I use a wash with rust on walkways, and some piping sections etc, depending on the age of the loco, or the era.   Thy didn’t take super great care of engines after 1956-7.   As far as spraying, limestone water deposits are done first, along with the area around the whistle, and any place that leaked steam. Usually the soot on top is flat black with a little Armor Sand and thinned with lacquer thinner.  I spray that at about 40lbs pressure from 9-15” from the top of the engine spraying backwards toward the tender to simulate the way real cinders and such would rain down on the loco as it went slowly down the track.  Next I would do the sand dust.  For this I have a 6 foot long piece of track on a 2x4.  I cover the rails with oil and power the track with either DC or DCC – whichever is installed.   I run the engine back and forth
 to get the tires covered in oil too.  Then I spray the Armor Sand thinned with lacquer thinner  as the engine slowly goes down the track.  This insures the side rods and drivers and such get covered as much as needed.  I spray from slightly below the rail height to simulate the direction the sand duct would spread.  Again, at about 35-40lbs pressure.  I try to use as many photos of the engine in service, and watch as many videos for the same reason.  

Mark Lindsey
Stuck in the 1930’s


On 2/2/11 10:09 PM, "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:


Cal,

 

My favorite colors for weathering are Earth, Mud, Dirt, L&N Gray, and Tarnished Black.  With a steam loco, I'll use various shades of gray in addition to the L&N.  Hope this helps.

 

Jim Brewer


----- Original Message -----
From: "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
To: "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2011 12:00:32 PM
Subject: Re: Airbrushing and Acrylics

Jim Brewer  I like your weatherieng, what colors do you use? Cal Reynolds. 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: NW Modeling List <mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>  
To: NW Modeling List <mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>  
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2011 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: Airbrushing and Acrylics

For the best glossy finish AND the paint coating isn’t so thick as to obscure details, I still use ScaleCoat I and II.  I thin with either lacquer thinner or Scalecoat thinners.  I use 35-45 lbs pressure through a Paasche H.  I dry the models in an old aquarium with a 150 watt floodlight shining on it.  It dries in about 7-10 hours.  When you no longer smell the thinners, the paint is dry.  


Mark Lindsey
Stuck in the 1930’s


On 2/2/11 7:57 AM, "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org <http://sz0048.wc.mail.comcast.net/zimbra/public/nw-modeling-list@nwhs.org> > wrote:


Matt,

 

I totally disagree with Mr. Mason.  I have been airbrushing acrylics for several years and have been satisfied with the results.  For those who have painted extensively with solvent based paints, using acrylics is an entirely different ballgame.  I still use solvent based paints for certain applications, but where possible, use acrylics for everything else.

 

Here are some things that come to mind on how I use acrylics:

 

1.  I do not use water to thin the paint; I use 70% isopropyl alcohol (you can use the 90% as well).  The reason I do this is the alcohol will evaporate and dissipate quickly, allowing good coverage of the paint; water simply will not act the same way and this can cause runs, drips and other problems.

 

2.  I thin most colors about 15%; colors such as yellow, orange and silver I willl thin 10% or less.

 

3.  I have found it is critical to "measure" your paint; unlike solvent paint where you can "eyeball" the mix, I have adopted a system that allows me to control the mix of paint to alcohol; first, as with any paint, I make certain it is thoroughly mixed in the bottle; I use a battery powered paint stirrer that I purchased from MicroMark; I then measure the paint using eyedroppers; this is not as tediuos as it sounds; I quickly learned that the eyedropper size I use holds "about 40 drops" of paint; I simply count the number of eyedroppers of paint to determine the amount of alcohol to add.  I then use the paint stirrer to thoroughly mix the paint before spraying.

 

4.  I spray at about 15-20 psi; this is all that is necessary.

 

5.  Prior to my painting session, I fill a small tub container with water that has a few drops of dishwashing detergent added; after spraying a color, I will submerge the airbrush in the tub and spray water through it; I'll remove the color cup and repeat the process with the brush only; I also keep a small airbrush paint bottle of windshiled washer fluid (the blue kind) at my spray booth; I then spray the windshield washer fluid through the color cup and the brush; at the end of a paint session, I will leave some of the washer fluid in the brush (that is, I don't spray until nothing more comes out).

 

6.  If I am using the airbrush for weathering, I will reverse the proportions of alcohol to paint;

 

7.  I use Floquil's Polly Scale acrylic paint almost exclusively.  Testor's makes this paint and I have used some of their acrylic Model Master colors as well.  I prefer these over Modelflex because they can be brush painted better.  

 

IMHO, the argument over solvent vs. acrylic is much like the old high school "Chevy vs. Ford," debate; or perhaps for today, Mac vs. PC; it all comes down to what works for you, and what you feel comfortable using.

 

Jim Brewer

Glenwood MD


----- Original Message -----
From: "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org <http://sz0048.wc.mail.comcast.net/zimbra/public/nw-modeling-list@nwhs.org> >
To: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org <http://sz0048.wc.mail.comcast.net/zimbra/public/nw-modeling-list@nwhs.org> 
Sent: Tuesday, February 1, 2011 8:27:16 PM
Subject: Airbrushing and Acrylics

The most recent Scotty Mason show had a section on airbrushing with acrylics in which the basic message was "don't do it". 

Thoughts on this rather black and white assessment?

Matt Goodman


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