N&W line poles

nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Tue Jan 17 14:47:14 EST 2006


Jim:
Thread is never used due to the fact that is collects dust, has micro fibers that stick out, and harder to clean. About 15 years ago modelers started using a thread for making suits which is mono filament threat like fine fishing line. It comes in grey, black/charcoal, and green. Light transcends thru it giving that shinny look when light reflects off the line. It is also easier to clean by taking a paint brush across it.

The newest product out is E Z Line by Berkshire Junction [www.berkshirejunction.com /(413)-743-3960)] This is polyurethane line that stretches if you hit it so that you will not tear out your poles in case of an accidental bump. It comes in that weathered green/blue aged cooper color also. Check out their site. I find this to be the best.

Stephen Rineair


Aubrey,

I used sewing thread that my wife and I purchased at one of the fabric shops. It is small in diameter and the brand name is Maxi-Lock; I suspect any brand will do.

I purchased two colors, Churchill Green and Black. My understanding of the lineside poles is that the lines on the lower cross arms were low voltage for signals, communications, etc. This was probably bare copper wire when installed new, but would oxidize to a green color.

Based on Vern French's Williamson Terminal book, I believe the wires on the upper cross arm and the one on the very top of the pole were for higher voltage. I used the black thread for these three lines.

I worked from the bottom crossarm and the farthest insulator; I did all of the insulators that were "away" from the pole first, then moved up the next cross arm, etc. I then did the insulators that were "closest" to the track, again working from back to front, bottom to top.

After all the green wires were strung, I then did the black wires; back, front, and then very top.

I would put a small amount of CA on the insulator, as close to the cross arm as i could get it. I then set the first wire and let it dry; I'd move pole by pole, being careful to keep the line straight, but not overly tight; you don't want the lines to bend the poles, nor do you want the lines to sag a lot. Occasionally, I would wrap the line around an insulator.

It takes a lot of time and you have to be sure the CA has set up before you move to the next pole. I also ran the thread through some beeswax to coat it, which is supposed to help it keep from fraying.

I did look for elastic thread; unfortunately, all of the elastic thread available in the fabric stores we checked was of a very thick diameter.

I am aware of the thread marketed by Berkshire Junction, which is a very small diameter elastic thread. However, it was far too expensive for the size of my layout.

A friend who builds model ships suggested using silk thread; I haven't explored this.

The thread, as I applied it, still has some flex to it; I've brushed against it several times and nothing has snapped...yet!

Hope this helps.

Jim Brewer
Glenwood MD
www.pocahontasmodel.com
Jim,

Your description of pole placement sounds good. What did you use for the wire?

Aubrey Wiley


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