hopper clinic

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 Jim: I make all my side stakes by cutting appropriate width strips from sheet styrene. (you need a long steel straight edge for this) The thick one is about 1/40th" (I forget the decimal thickness) and the thin (bottom) one I cut from scrounged take-out food cup tops. (somewhere between .005 and .010) Glad you perceive rivets, as they are not there. If you see rivets, you are looking at a commercial stake that happened to be in the right place. I don't make any distinction between U section and top hat. As for the tapered ends, if they are at the bottom, I use a sanding block after all the stakes are in place. If on the H4, I probably taper them after application with my chisel blade. BTW: that is the most useful tool I have. I have learned how to whittle away any cast-on feature I want to remove. And I don't buy new blades. I sharpen with my whet stone. Same for the single edge razor blades I use for most of my cuts.
Jim Nichols
    On Monday, June 12, 2023 at 10:52:59 AM EDT, NW Mailing List <nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org> wrote:  
 
 Jim Nichols,As always your talks are very informative and your modeling is exquisite.  I was wondering if you could be persuaded to provide some tips on how you achieve your results for side stakes and rivet detail.  As I understand it, some of the stakes were of "top hat" cross section while others were "U" or rounded. Some were tapered at one or both of the ends.  For the "top hat" variety, I had considered square rod on top of appropriately wider strip next to the car side.  Trying to cut  the appropriate bevel into the ends of the tapered ones seems like it might be a touch tricky.  Any tips?  Also, how do you get all those rivets into the correct positions?Thanks in advance for you guidance,Jim Cochran________________________________________
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