new question (N&W Caboose Markers) - PHOTOS
NW Mailing List
nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org
Tue Feb 23 17:01:53 EST 2016
That looks like a luggage rack light, possibly stocked for replacement of lights in the lightweight coaches or the modernized PG's.
On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 2:33 PM, NW Mailing List <nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org> wrote:
Yesterday I posted some memories of N&W cabooses which had been "electrified," and mentioned the ceiling light fixtures which I thought may have come from passenger equipment.
Attached is a PDF showing one of these fixtures, which I obtained from a wrecked caboose in the late 1970s. It is contained in a housing I framed up from cut-down pieces of an old 2x10. Since the weather is not providing good sunlight today, these photos had to be made by the less-than-desirable flash method, and on the Boss Lady's kitchen table.
These fixtures were mounted on the ceilings of "electrified" cabooses, one in each end. Beside each end door there was a standard snap switch (just like in your home.) The wiring was, of course, placed in steel conduit.
The manufacturer of this fixture was Luminator, Inc., of Chicago. A web search shows that Luminator is still in existence, under the name "Luminator Technology Group." The part number appears to be "21 C.P. L.F. L-9491," and the production date is stamped "3-1962 - 16." The question then becomes: Where was this fixture between its manufacture date March 1962, and the time it was installed on a caboose more than a decade later? Was it originally purchased for passenger car use, and held for years as Company Material until it was installed on a caboose?
As will be seen, I removed the original double-contact bayonet base and substituted a small plastic miniature screw-thread base. The lamp shown here is a 5.2 volt #502 standard railroad lantern lamp. I burn my #502 lamps at 2.4 volts, and they give a nice glow and, at the reduced voltage, generally last 10 years, even when lit 24/7/365.
The problem with any low voltage miniature screw base lamp, however, especially when burned at a very small voltage, is that there is not enough electrical potential ("voltage") to ionize any small amounts of oxidation which develop over time on the lead-tip base and the brass bottom contact. Translation: You have to be opening up the fixture about every six months, and fiddling with a bulb which has lost electrical contact. Dipping the threads in Pale Semaphore Oil, and drying them, before insertion helps somewhat, but does not completely solve the oxidation problem.
So while I have this baby down for photography, I think I will change out the base again and install a G-4 12 volt LED array using the SMD (surface mounted device) package, and juice it at 10 volts. That should solve the oxidation problem for good, and since LED's are rated for 50,000 hours life, even when burned at full rated voltage, I will probably never have to change out the LED again ! HA! The barnyard mechanic wins another one...
-- abram burnett
Sent to You from my Telegraph Key
... better than AT&T 4G LTE
NW-Mailing-List at nwhs.org
To change your subscription go to
Browse the NW-Mailing-List archives at
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
More information about the NW-Mailing-List